Monday, July 30, 2007

Look Right and Turn Tight Then Kiss the Blarney Stone!

The hazards of driving on the left side of the road!

One the southern portion of the visiting Ireland we had many new experiences. Among them was learning to drive all over again. It is amazing how you can verbally(whispering to yourself as to not alarm the other passengers) tell yourself to stay on the left side of the road and your brain will take over forcing the car into oncoming traffic. There is also the problem with the left side of the cars in Ireland, it likes to rub up again the vegetation and rock walls found everywhere along the county side. I will have to write Renault and tell them they have a defect in the design of their cars. Actually, I got the hang of driving as was able to help out driving on some of our longer drives. That was after a long learning curve (no pun intended). My experiences included having to back up down a small one lane road about a quarter of a mile because the tractor heading for us was bigger!!. I decided the rubbing is racing theory did not work so well with a tractor. The other experience involved two cars a road about the size of a side walk and me trying to get out of the way by pulling in the closest turn off which so happened to be on the right side of the road, my brain took over and I went for it. Obviously the guy heading towards me, that I just drove in front of, thought it was a good idea because he gave me a long honk (I have determined that meant good job in Irish) !!!! It was not only my car driving that involved excitement, as the bikes in Ireland I feel have the same affinity to thorn bushes as the left side of cars. Luckily this only involved myself getting snugly with a rock wall covered in thorn bushes on our bike ride around the Dingle Peninsula.

After training my brain to ignore itself and drive on the correct side of the road, I was able to enjoy some sights. The Blarney castle was a popular tourist spot and we stopped to kiss the old stone. Actually there was some concern because we heard that the locals like to use the stone as a urinal. Once we confirmed it was safe we set up the spiral staircase to the top of the castle to kiss the famous stone that is said to give you the gift of eloquent speech. I am still waiting for the affect (I think Katie is hoping there will not be any side affects involving increases in volume levels or quantity)! Actually I did not realize we had to lay on our backs hanging our head outside the castle wall to reach the stone. There was plenty of disinfectant going around after the kiss just to be careful.

Southern Ireland

Southern Ireland has been quite a different experience from the bus tour, although no less exciting. Kenny and I, along with Phil, Deedie and Caroline Hering (Deedie is my dad's cousin) and my Mom, Dad, and Laura decided to start our tour on the Dingle peninsula. It was a quaint village with narrow roads and beautiful sights. The Caufield's decided we would risk our lives and test our current physical condition by doing a bike tour. Let just say that it is pretty funny to watch five people diving for the side of the road every time a bus comes by because there in only room for one vehicle at a time. There was many sheep along the way, some on the road, some ancient beehive caves and vast cliffs.

From Dingle we went on the Bere Island where my mom's ancestors are from. Apparently my mom's ancestors did not have tourism on their mind because we may have been the only tourists on the island. There was one restaurant and one guesthouse, Lawrence Cove Lodge, where Edel was extremely welcoming and friendly. We also loved her for her washing machine since we were eager for some clean clothes. Although it rained a lot while we were on the island we did have a nice hike along the coast, out to one of the lighthouses, again accompanied by sheep most of the way.

We also were able to spend a few nights in Kinsale, once we found accommodations (mind you the accommodations that we did find had Laura sleeping on the floor) and in Kilkenny. From there we went to Waterford for a tour of the Waterford Crystal Factory. This would have been an interesting but benign tour, however, when we got to the gift shop things got interesting. I was casually talking with my mom and Laura when Laura picked up a $50 wine glass, looked at in and then went to put in back in the box. However, rather than putting in back in the box she accidentally hit in against one of the shelves and yes, broke a piece of Waterford crystal. My mom and I busted up laughing while Laura started to hyperventilate and sweat. She eventually got up the nerve to take the wineglass to the front desk and the workers couldn't have cared less. They said it happened all the time. Needless to say Kenny decided to keep his hands in his pockets for the rest of the time in the store.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

The Wheels on the Bus Go Round and Round...

For the past eight days we have toured Ireland, by bus with 27 members of the Caufield clan. The great thing was that we did not have to make a single decision about where to eat, stay or what sights to visit. It was all predetermined and we were able to simply show up and enjoy. It was great getting to spend time with Caufields that I have not previously spent a lot of time with and to get to know everyone a bit better. We also got to stay in super nice hotels that are unlike the budget accommodations we normally choose.

The bus tour was a good summary of many different places. We had tours of the Guinness Brewery and Bushmills distillery, were able to visit with Giant's Causeway and Cliffs of Moher and had a great time exploring Castle Caulfield. The castle was built by Sir Toby Caulfield back in the 1609 and we are somehow distant descendants of this man. Our favorite cities were Belfast and Galway. In Belfast we stayed at the Europa hotel which has been bombed more than any other single location in the world. Thankfully, the "Times of the Troubles" are behind this great place and we were able to stay in a beautiful and safe hotel. In Galway had some tasty fish and chips and enjoyed the Galway Arts festival with some very entertaining street performers.

Unfortunately the bus tour has ended and now there are only eight of us who will be spending the next week seeing the sights in the southern parts of Ireland. It has been difficult to get internet access the past week but we will try to be better and more consistent.

Friday, July 13, 2007

Fish in Crazy Water and the Self Combusting Bikini

Our arrival in Sorrento seems to have brought about a change in pace, or more accurately our activity level has come to a screeching halt. We spent our first day visiting Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Mount Vesuvius. Each of these sights was amazing and well worth the visit. The eruption that covered these cities happened in 79 A.D and here we were looking at paintings and artifacts from life thousands of years ago that was simply frozen in time. One of the most erie but somehow fascinating parts was seeing the casts of human figures who were killed by the eruption. Some appeared to be sleeping while others had their hands covering their faces to keep from breathing the ash.
After the jam packed day visiting these sights we decided we needed to slow down and so we have been lying by the pool, eating pasta, reading, and then eating gelato. We were able to find the energy to attend a cooking class at the Sorrento Cooking School and it was well worth it. We learned how to make ricotta fritters, gnocchi, homemade tomato sauce, fish in crazy water, and tiramisu. We plan to make this for all of you when we return, but we can't make any promises on the quality since the Italian chef will not be there to supervise. Then we got to eat what we made. I am not sure but I think our new tomato sauce recipe may be able to give Nick's a run for the money. However, he is the original Italian so I am not sure.
After a meal like that our only option was to head for the pool. This may sound like an innocent and insignificant decision. However, after about 15 minutes sitting by the pool, the clasp on my bikini top suddenly and unexpectedly shattered, causing me to expose my bosom. The only thing I can determine is that they must be growing due to the "No Carb Left Behind" diet. The sudden surprise of it all also caused me to let out a loud yelp so that most people in the area turned to look. Kenny moved rather slowly but eventually was able to get me a shirt while I tried to keep mostly covered. Luckily, I had a back up swimsuit and the original one went into the trash can.
You might have guessed that we are sitting by the pool again today, although we might get really crazy and walk down to the beach. On Saturday we return to Rome for one night before we fly to Ireland. It is hard to believe that we are already at the end of our time in Italy. It went by quickly, was incredibly fun and we have created great memories. One of these days we will bring the camera cord with us to the internet shop so we can add some photos to this here blog.

When in Rome.....

Based on previous posts you can gather we have had some interesting and exciting experiences.
Besides for the crazy train and eating experiences we have also visited some beautiful sites.
The Vatican Musuem and St. Peter's Bascilica were expecially interesting. You can not imagine how big the Bascilica is until you are walking through it. It holds 95,000 people. I really enjoyed the crypt where we got to see Pope JP II's grave site. It was very simple and guarded, they would not allow us to take pitures to share with you when we return. The Roman Forum, Colesueum and Pantheon really put the history of the United States into perspective. It is interesting to think that this great civilization once ruled the world then collapsed because of it became too powerful for it's own good. Enough on the history lesson. The fountains in Rome are a separate tour by themselves. These aqueduct fed fountains are so clean and cold you can drink right out of them. I especially liked the Trevi fountain at night. Although it was packed with young romantics playing tonsil hockey we were able to enjoy the beautiful lights on the marble and water while licking gelato!.

I have come to realize that my wife is a expert negotiator. She even was able to get us free AC in our 6' X 8.5' hotel room. That is a skill that I'm sure will come in handy when we reach SE Asia. Hopefully, I can pick up a few pointers along the way. One would think she sold filters for a living. Hmm, maybe I should check out social work? I have become an expert at helping elder people get there baggage on trains. They were probably just pick pocketing me without my knowing.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Differences Between Italy and the U.S.A

Italy has been amazing. The history and sites are around every corner. We have enjoyed every moment except for the aching feet. Our room is especially amusing when we measured it to be 6.5 feet X 8.0 feet. I have noticed a few differences between Italy and the U.S., among them include:
1) Mini Coopers are not so mini in size compared to other vehicles. (We call them Averages instead of Mini's)
2) It is considered romantic in Italy to dine by candlelite on a card table in an alley full of trash bags. U.S. not so much!
3) It is perfectly acceptable to have ice cream every night, even twice a day as long as you call it Gelato.
4) Eating pizza and pasta every meal, every day is the only option.

Sunday, July 8, 2007

Lost on the Metro

We have about two minutes right now but wanted to tell you all about the funny thing that happened today. Kenny and I were enjoying the coolness of the metro, trekking across town to go to the Borghese Museum after spending a hot afternoon in the sun at the Colosseum. The metro was filling up quickly and getting ready to leave. Kenny asked, "Should we get on?" To which I replied "Lets do it." Next thing I know the doors of the metro are closing with me on the inside and Kenny left standing on the platform. We pressed our hands to the glass and looked longingly at each other as we waved goodbye, never knowing if we would find each other again in the vast city of Rome. Alas, we both got off at the stop for our hotel and all was well. However, it provided for some good laughs.

Saturday, July 7, 2007

Trains, Fines and Sweaty Hikers!!

Katie and I thought we were doing well despite the language barrier until we ran into a few problems on the rails. After a full day of hiking the Cinque Terre about (5 hours worth) we decided to buy a 2 euro ticket back to Montorosso where we were staying. We soon found out that the local tickets need to be validated the same as the regional tickets. The conductor informed us that this small error would result in a 25 euro fine each. When we lied about not having 50 euro he asked for our passports and told us he would be calling the police at the next station. Our bluff seemed to work because when Katie told him to get the police he settled for 25 euro. I still think he pocketed the money because we did not receive a receipt for this transaction. However we felt better when we soon learned almost every other traveler we meet has made this costly mistake.

On the next train ride we tried to be especially careful and double checked all of our tickets for validation stamps. We then proceeded to get on the next train and found out we did not learn our lesson. The conductor informed us that we got on the reservation only train. Which turned out to be one train earlier than the train we bought a ticket for. This resulted in another fine, but this time the conductor felt bad for us and went out of her way to make sure we made it to the correct train and our next connection. We have learned a lot on this trip but I think the trains will always confuse me.

Despite it all, the Cinque Terra was amazing. The hike that went from city to city had breathtaking views and helped us train for Everest!! Each town was unique in it's own way and we enjoyed the rest we took in each. Our accommodations at Manuel's Guesthouse were perfect. Manuel and his nephew Lorenzo are very friendly, hospitable and offered their home complete with beer, wine and spectacular views on their mountainside patio. From here we are spending one night in Sienna and then off to see more museums and old buildings in Rome.

Ciao
Getting Feisty in Florence

As those of you who have been to Florence know it is a beautiful city with a multitude of art and sights. Kenny is a great tour guide and had a jam packed day of museum tickets reserved so we didn't have to wait in line. However, when we got to our first museum of the day, the Academia, to see the lovely David we learned that they would not be opening until 10:45, almost two hours after our scheduled reservation. We returned at 10;45 to find mass mobs of angry and confused tourists, mostly Americans, who wanted in the museum. You would have thought they were waiting in line for the last loaf of bread in the country. Kenny did what investigation he could to learn that we should mill about with the rest of the waiting mob and see what happens. When the doors opened what happened was as close to a stampede as I have ever been in. There were elbows flying, people shoving and lots of angry yelling. It was a bit embarrassing to be an American at that particular moment. However, our ability to stand our ground and keep our cool paid off because we were one of a few people who were finally let in to see the remarkable and awe inspiring David. Kenny's training in Sumo wrestling really paid off.
The Uffizi, our next stop on the tour, also contained beautiful art but by the end of the day were felt we were walking on bloody stumps. After a quick rest at the hotel were were ready to head out for another dining extravaganza, compliments of Rachael Ray and her $40 a Day book. This place was amazing. We again had to stand our ground and use our charm to get past the hungry mob and get a table in a restaurant that was booked with reservations several days ahead. When we sat down the food and wine started coming and we started eating, and eating, and eating. We began with prosciutto and melon, caprese salad, toast with pate and barley salad. We then had a variety of different pastas, followed by a lamb chop for me and a pork chop for Kenny with side dishes of the best green beans, spinach, potatoes, and beans you have ever had. Then we had bisccotti dipped in apricot liquor and for dessert cream Carmel and raspberry torte with sparkling wine. We were happy campers who weighed about 30 pounds more after we left the restaurant.

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

Italy Dieting or Should I say Dining!!

First things first!! Of course I am going to talk about food! Italian's love their carbs as we all know. Katie and I had no problem finding ample supplies of pasta and bread. As most of you know I was in heaven over the bread thing. After a few nights of this diet we realized that Mr. Akins had it all wrong, as long as you are walking around a foreign country you can eat all the carbs you want and still not gain a pound. Florence was a different story. Last night we had a meal of a life time. It is amazing what you will order when you have no idea what the menu or the waiter is saying. Let me outline the meal for you.

Primi-Pasta
Katie: Mushroom Pasta
Kenny: tortellini

Secondi-Meat
This is where it got interesting. The waiter suggested a 1.4 kilo bistecca fiorentina. Katie's instinct told us to go a little smaller. 1 kilo sounded good to Kenny. When the steak showed up the MasterCard commercials came to mind. 1 bottle of wine---12 euro, two pasta dishes--13 euro , not understanding what was ordered--free, 1 steak the size of Rhode Island---Priceless!
I need to emphasis the size of the steak for those of you not familiar with the metric system. 1 kilo = 2.2 lbs. of T-bone. That is 1.1 lbs. each.

Today we are off to see some art and probably enjoy a nice fruit salad to lighten the load a bit!

Stay tuned for more culinary reviews by Kenny.

Sunday, July 1, 2007

The Venice Lion

Well, we are fully into travel mode. We arrived in Milan two days ago somewhat tired but determined to stay awake and get on Italy time. We spent our first day wondering the city and enjoying the tram which we got off two miles before we were supposed too rather than take it straight to the front door of our hotel. After being awake for 28 hours straight we were eager for sleep which did not come as easily as we hoped. Especially when Kenny thought since he was awake I should be too. Imagine this scene if you will....crabby Katie being awakened by all the lights in the room being turned on every few hours....not pretty.
We are more rested now and have moved on to Venice. We spent the day seeing lots and lots and lots of old art! For the first few hours we actually read about each piece we were looking at. However, by the end, a glance in the general direction seemed to suffice. The dogs were barking and it was time to feed the hungry art critics. We had a nice picnic lunch along one of the canals. But only after holding up the line at the grocery store while the checker went back to weigh our produce, something we were clueless about. Our first adventure in living the local life. After lunch we were ready to hit the Doge`s palace were we got lost in the dungeons but found our way back by following the sounds of the loud American tour group, just off the cruise ship. At the palace I also got stuck in the bathroom for a good few minutes and was starting to wonder how long it would be before Kenny came looking for me, when I was finally able to unlock the door. Kenny had a similar experience just a few hours later when he got locked in the bathroom at our hotel. He too had to learn the special Italian secret for getting out of the bathroom...unlocking the door.
We are on our way to Florence tomorrow where I am sure we will have more cultural faux pas and blurry eyed treks through art museums. We are having a great time, loving the food, but hating the weight of our backpacks. I have a feeling they will be getting lighter in the coming days.