Similan Islands Diving

Katie and I just returned from a two day diving trip to the world renowned Similin Islands. We also had our first liveaboard experience and got to spend the night watching the waves and hearing the surf. We enjoyed six dives during our two days out to sea. These islands have the distinction of being one of only a few sites in the world where one can see whale sharks and huge manta rays. Although we did not get to see either creature, we did have the pleasure of seeing two white tip reef sharks, along with a sea turtle, a tuna, an octopus, crab, an emperor fish and schools and schools of the most colorful fish you can imagine. Although the big fish tend to catch the eye a bit more, the small fish are amazing too. At one point we were swimming through the water and it seemed like we were floating through a million pieces of colorful confetti. During the diving trip we also were able to get our Advanced Diving Certificate. In order to do this we had to improve on some old skills and learn some new ones. We participated in our first night dive, which I found a little scary, especially when we encountered a fairly large moray eel. The trip was a great experience and I really enjoyed staying on the dive boat, however considering most liveaboard schedules include four dives a day, for four days, one would really have to love diving to be in the water that much. Katie and I discussed maybe a modified two or three night stay on a dive trip in the future.

Lazing Around Ko Mook

It never ceases to amaze me how little one can do during the day and how quickly the day passes away. Our time in Ko Mook can be described in no other way....we did absolutely nothing and the days sped past. Ko Mook is a fishing island with one large resort and several small places that offer bungalows or tentalows. There are very few people compared to other islands and it is small enough that you can walk around the entire thing. We didn't need to walk far because we spent most of our time on the beach or on the deck of our bungalow watching the waves, reading or drinking a few cocktails with our new Irish friends.

We met George and Christina when I dragged Kenny to a restaurant a bit off the beaten path, that was having a "ladies drink free" night. George and Christina are from Ireland and while Christina reminded us of my mom, George was a squashed version of my uncle Bill, complete with curly beard and a great sense of humor. They have been coming to Ko Mook for the past nine years and are well known on the island. We had a great time chatting and getting to know all about their experiences in Thailand. The day after we met them we went with them on a longboat for a day of snorkeling and to visit Emerald Cave.

Emerald Cave may be one of the most beautiful places in the world. Along the water are some high limestone cliffs and you can barely make out a small opening at the water's edge. We donned our life vests and then set out to see what we would find. Once inside, while there is still light, the water is the most vibrant, electric turquoise you can imagine. However, it is not long before there is no longer light and we only had one small flashlight for the entire group. We swam in the pitch black cave for about five minutes until we again could see the light. Since it was high tide the water was somewhat close to the top of the cave a a few times we had to swim underwater until the next air pocket. It was a bit scary at times but well worth it because the cave opened up onto a secluded beach surrounded by high limestone cliffs and dense green foliage. The cave is the only way to get to the beach, unless one is an extremely skilled rock climber.

I think that if there had been an ATM on Ko Mook we would probably still be there, but there was not and we are not yet proficient at spear fishing so we are heading to Khao Lak where we hope to do some scuba diving before we have to leave Thailand. This is the first country we have gone to where we will use every last day on visas. We will definitely be coming back here.

Thanksgiving in Thailand

We celebrated our turkey day a little different this year. We started out renting a motorbike and cruised around the island of Ko Lanta looking for a elephant trek that would take us to a cave in the hills. Once we learned that the elephant trek was a little out of our budget we decided to head to another cave on the island that you could spelunk in. This was a very interesting experience since it involved crawling through a hole not much bigger than myself (good thing I lost some lbs. in Nepal). I even had to pass the backpack through to Katie to fit. The cave itself was very warm and humid, provoking my sweat glans into overdrive. There was a spring in the cave that was advertised as good for swimming. This I thought would be a great relief from the hot temperature in the cave. Upon arrival I found a hole no-bigger than a horse trough filled with a green murky water. Valuing my life and fear of disease I optioned out of the swimming portion, as did everyone in the group, even our high guides!!! Apparently grass is good for the caving experience.

Once we made it to daylight we went searching for a restaurant that was supposed to have a "Thanksgiving Dinner". We should have known better being in Thailand, Thanksgiving is not that popular of a holiday. We did find a wonderful restaurant called "The Red Snapper" and it provided a menu that was suitable for two hungry travelers mourning for a holiday meal. Instead of Turkey we had beef tenderloin and pork steak, and a myriad of appetisers that we tried to mimic as the ones all of you were probably enjoying. We just did it without the football on T.V. (to my disappointment). This years thanksgiving was great and I could not have imagined a better meal, with the exception of having all of you present!!!

Happy Thanksgiving!!

Kenny and I wanted to wish all of our friends and family Happy Thanksgiving! We are thankful for all of your support and well wishes during our travels. We are lucky to have all of you in our lives. Our plans for the day include looking for a restaurant that might be willing to serve two Americans, aka turkeys, a dinner that resembles our traditional dishes. However, we suspect we will be having grilled seafood, curry, phad thai, and pineapple shakes.

Thai Cooking Class

Since we had such great success at the Italian cooking glass, we thought we would add to our expertise and take a Thai class. The day turned out to be a perfect day for cooking lessons since the weather was not that great for the beach. It has been raining on and off all day. The school we chose for our training was very near our bungalow and we got to enjoy a walk on the beach before it started. There were six students, with me being the only male. As a group we got to choose five dishes to prepare and eat!!! After an intense lobbying and voting session with the other students, Katie and I were able to have all five of the dishes we wanted selected by the group. The menu consisted of the following items:


1) Coconut soup with chicken or seafood (Heaven in a bowl)

2) Sweet and sour chicken

3) Massaman curry with beef or chicken

4) Seafood fried rice

5) Red curry with chicken (Too Hot to Handle!!)


Looking at the vast menu, one might think we were pigs at a feast. Well your right, after making each dish got to have a break and enjoy our culinary masterpieces. By the end of the meal we could barely finish. We ended with the red curry, I decided to make it with a full tablespoon of curry paste which kicked up the spice meter a bit. Needless to say I was unable to eat it, which turned out okay because I was so full it would have been painful to eat another bite. It was a great experience and we now have a international menu to choose from when we cook for guests on our return home.

Thai Style Birthday

This years birthday was a little different from previous years. After realizing I am now the same age as Jesus was when he died, I began to think a little more about enjoying life than participating in a celebration that tends to lead to forgetting the nights activities. Katie and I spent the day relaxing by the pool and getting a massage. The day was beautiful and hot, thankfully there was a cool ocean and pool near bye that provided the occasional relief. After a dinner at Mr. Wee's Pizzeria we walked down the beach to enjoy the sunset at a new favorite hangout. This little grass hut restaurant and bar does not yet have a name due to it being open for only three days. We like to call is the No-Name Place. We have made friends with the owners and have spent the last few meals enjoying her wonderful local fare. For the sunset we chose our current favorite a pineapple shake with rum to celebrate the big 33. While enjoying our refreshments we noticed a dark cloud coming over the island that soon turned into a fierce thunderstorm. Since we could not possibly walk back to our bungalow in the rain we decided to wait out the storm and have a few beers. A few turned into many and I found myself back in the same situation I have for the last few birthdays--slightly tipsy!!!. After the rain stopped we staggered back to our bungalow and had some pastries, that substituted a birthday cake, while taking funny pictures of each other. I can honestly say I will not forget my Thai birthday and I am still recovering today.

Encounters in the Thai Hospital

We have had our first encounter with the Thai health care system and it was as pleasant as could be expected. It all began when we were rushing to get the ferry from Koh Phi Phi to Ko Lanta. I went to put my shoes on and scraped my hand across a broken glass window valance. Although it was not a large cut it was right between my index and middle fingers, was quite deep and I immediately suspected that I might need stitches. However, we were unable to change our ferry tickets, and being the budget minded travelers we are, I grabbed a wad of towels and we headed onto the ferry.
Once we arrived in Ko Lanta we settled into our bungalows and learned that the cost of a taxi to the hospital would be 1500 bht but the cost of renting a moped for 24 hours would be 250 bht. Of course we choose the moped and my ambulance driver (Kenny) did great sound effects all along the drive. He also took a wrong turn along the way so we traveled on some dirt roads, through a rubber plantation, and saw some monkeys.
Once we got there we signed in, waited about five minutes, and then had a very professional nurse named Bee, who spoke limited English, numb me up and give me some stitches. While I was being taken care of I admired the geckos running along the ceiling and the view of palm trees and jungle through the open windows. Nurse Bee sent us on the way with pain killers, antibiotics, stitches, and a bill for the entire experience for 540 bht or about $16.30 USD. We must have been in the hospital for no more than 45 minutes. When we left the hosptial we headed out to explore the island since we got to keep our "ambulance" for 24 hours. The only bad thing is that I can't get my stitches wet for seven day and I look kind of funny in the pool and ocean holding my hand up in the air.

Heaven in it's Edible Form

I have had a glimpse of heaven...in its edible form! Last night for dessert we had fresh mango with sticky rice. I salivate as I think of it and just can't believe that I have actually lived for 30 years without this tasty delight or that we have been in Thailand for 15 days and have not yet enjoyed this extravaganza for the taste buds. I feel that there are hardly words to describe it but I will try my best. The sticky rice is warmed with sugar and coconut milk and then served with thinly sliced ripe and tangy mango. Delicious!!!

Diving in Pi ......(Pi)

Today we tried our scuba fins on and set out to see some underwater scenery. The two dives we did were called Koh Haa Yai (Twin Cathedrals) and Koh Haa Naun (The Chimney). Both of the dives started with numerous tropical fish at your fingertips and beautiful coral that vibrated with a rainbow of colors. The highlight of the dives included a swim through shaft called the chimney that was about 10 meters long. At the top you had to be careful not to surface in the wave swells as we were not ready to complete our dive. On our second dive we entered two caves that you could surface in the air bubble located inside the island. The really neat aspect of the cave was its ability to fill with mist as the pressure inside the cave decreased due to the wave action outside. Then spontaneously the mist would disappear as the wave pressure forced it of the cracks in the limestone structure. It seemed as the island was breathing and we were in its lungs. The barracuda and crocodile needle fish were the most dangerous fish we encountered although we hope to see some black tip reef sharks and leopard sharks in the next few dives.

Kho Phi Phi-The Island of Paradise

I think we have entered paradise. It wasn't exactly paradise to get here or to find a place to stay but now that were are here and have a bed to sleep in all is well. We opted to buy a train, bus, ferry package from Bangkok to Kho Phi Phi simply because it was easier and almost the same price. The train was great. We left at 6:30 p.m. and enjoyed comfortable beds and air conditioning until 7 a.m. when we got on a rusted bus that leaked water on the heads of several passengers to drive us to the ferry port. The ferry boat was also quite rusted and had the strongest smell of moth balls that one can imagine. However, we made it safely and then spent the next two hours wandering the island looking for a place with air conditioning that was within out budget. I don't think such accommodations exist but I eventually was able to convince Kenny of the merits of a fan and we were able to find a place that even included breakfast.

The breakfast was great and included what has become one of my favorite dishes in Thailand, mixed fruit with yogurt, muesli, and honey. Yumm!! There is so much amazingly sweet and fresh fruit here. They even have jackfruit. We have also become quite fond of the pineapple juice shake and usually enjoy at least two per day. We are loving all the Thai dishes that we have tried, although a few times have gotten dishes that were even too spicy for Kenny.

We spent today lounging by the beach. We took a long boat taxi to one of the more deserted beaches which had white sand the consistency of sugar and water so clear you could see the fish swimming at the bottom. There were schools of tiger fish and several rock and coral formations . We are planning to go scuba diving tomorrow and are really excited because we have heard such great things. Also, there are huge limestone rock formations all around the island so the scenery is amazing. We love it here but think that after a few more days we may have to move on to another island and discover the other islands of paradise that Thailand has to offer.

Water Falls and Bitting Fish!

We spent the day at Erwan National Forest, northwest of Bangkok hiking and enjoying the beautiful waterfalls. Erwan has seven spectacular waterfalls that are staged along a jungle hillside. In order to get to the top waterfall we had to hike for a hour through the humid jungle, passing screeching monkeys and huge teak and palm trees. Each of the waterfalls had a unique contour through the hillside. We stopped at two to swim in the beautifully clear pools that gathered at the bottom of each. The very top falls provided a great view of the cliff where the river began it path down the hillside. We spent some time cooling off in the chilly waters and basking in the limited sunshine that was able to make it way through the thick vegetation. We soon found the numerous fish that lived in the pools also were very territorial. It was a little weird to experience attacking fish that would nip at you legs and toes as you wadded in the pools. One of the most enjoyable pools we found was one that had two huge boulders that the water cascaded over. These provided a great water slide for Katie and I to slip into the fish infested pools. My fun was cut short when I had to rescue my wife from some aggressive picture taking locals that enjoyed the way Katie looked in her swimsuit. We spent the rest of the day in one of the museums that discussed the history of Burma-Thai railroad and its significance in World War II. We ended the day enjoying a beer and watching the beautiful sunset behind the nearby mountains between Thailand and Burma.

Kanchanaburi and Bridge over the River Kwai

Today we got up quite early to catch the train to Kanchanaburi. In fact, we got up so early that the Starbucks next to our hotel was still closed and so we had to go to Dunkin Donuts for coffee and some early morning sugar instead. Of course we wanted to have a Thai breakfast but it just wouldn't travel as nicely on the train.

The train was quite old but one of the cleanest trains I have ever traveled on. In fact there were several people who continued to clean the train throughout the ride. Also, the bathroom was regularly sprinkled with lemon juice to keep it smelling nice. Thailand is definitely one of the cleaner countries we have visited. Unlike Kathmandu, the dead animals on the road disappear overnight.

Kanchanaburi is three hours northwest of Bangkok and sits right along the Mae Nam Khwae River or River Kwai where prisoners of war built the infamous Bridge over the River Kwai during WWII. Over 100,000 allied POWs died during the construction of the bridge which was built in order for the Japanese to get supplies overland through Burma. It was a somber place, but had a rather strange assortment of memorabilia in the museum. For example, there was an entire room full of an assortment of wood chips. I am guessing from every sort of tree you find in Thailand but I can't be sure since I still don't read Thai as well as I speak it. Tomorrow we are planning to take the train through HellFire Pass and to visit the seven-tiered Erwan Falls where we are hoping to take a dip in a refreshing cascade of water. However, we aren't getting our expectations too high because if there is one thing we have learned since starting our travels it is to keep the expectations low and wait to be pleasantly surprised.

Beach Bums in Ko Samet!

We had a few days to kill, due to the waiting period for our Vietnam Visa's, so we picked the closest island to Bangkok to visit, Ko Samet. Three hours by minibus and a 45 minute ferry ride and we were laying on a beautiful white sandy beach. The accomodations were pretty neat, it was a one room wooden bungalow that sat on stilts. This was important, I thought, with the 2004 tsunami still fresh in everyones minds.

The beach and island was less commercialized than any other island I had been on. I don't want you to think it was too rustic but, it was great to still have the convenience of A/C and hot showers with out a McD's or BK on the street corner. The hotels seemed to be family run and provided a quaint place to relax and enjoy the beauty of the Gulf of Thailand. It was very easy to get lost in a book or spend the day swimming and watching the surf come in.

Bustling Bangkok

Well, we have been in Bangkok for three days and are enjoying the modern, rather "western" feel (or should I say food). Bangkok is very modern, very large, and has lots and lots of beautiful temples.
Our first order of business was to obtain our visas for Vietnam. However, along the way I got distracted by a beauty salon and a few hours later I emerged with a lot less hair. It was not until after this experience that I realized how popular the mullet is here in Thailand and what a risk I was taking by putting my hair in the hands of a Thai stylist. However, after the half hour head massage and hair washing I wasn't one hundred percent coherent so I feel lucky to get away with as good of a cut as I did.

Since then we have seen Wat after Wat, which have included a HUGE reclining Buddha, a happy Buddha, the black Buddha, and the emerald Buddha. The architecture is amazing with all the gold and the colored glass and around every corner is another temple or cultural site.

Bangkok also has a lot of great food. Our first day here we had opted for totally American experience and decided to have hamburgers and fries at Outback Steakhouse as well as blizzards at good ole' DQ. Since then it has been nothing but Phad Thai and Tom Yum Soup and various other unpronounceable but delicious dishes. At the recommendation of the guidebook we headed to the food court at the mall and were pleasantly surprised by how good and cheap it was. The guidebook says the mall food courts are similar to the street vendors but include air conditioning. Kenny has been a bit hesitant to eat from the throngs of street vendors but I think I have him convinced since he realized that almost every restaurant we have gone to (except for at the food courts) we have eaten inside but our food has been prepared outside on the street.

From hear we head to Ko Samet in the Gulf of Thailand where we will spend a few days before we return to Bangkok to pick up our Vietnam visas and then go to see the islands on the Indian ocean.