Our first glimpse of THE mountain

October 17, 2007
EBC Trek Day 4
Namche Bazaar to Tengbouche (12, 900 ft.)

Today is the day that I think we start roughing it. The bathrooms have gotten progressively more rustic since we left Namche and our current commode is an outhouse with a wood platform to squat over. We don't even get any leaves like before. But, we got to see Everest!! Thankfully, the clouds cooperated quite nicely so that we could see it when we first arrived in Tengbouche. However, for the first few hours here we were taking photos of Lhotse and thinking it was Everest, probably because Lhotse looks a lot taller. Perhaps the "mountain measurers" got it wrong because Everest certainly does not look like the giant it is supposed to be.

The hike today was about four and a half hours. The first half was nothing but downhill and the second half was nothing but steep, steep, uphill. I tried to keep a pretty slow pace and take plenty of the rest breaks like everyone has recommended. The trek was not terribly difficult but I am getting some bad blisters and they feel much better on the uphill portions. Also, we started taking the Diamox today, as most knowledgeable Miles suggested. Miles, who we met last night at dinner, said it would work better if it had built up in your blood before you actually needed it. We are pretty much willing to believe almost anyone who seems to know what they are talking about. Miles could have told us to hike on all fours or with our clothes on backwards and we probably would have done it. We have also have drastically increased our water consumption and I think that has made the biggest difference in how we are feeling. The only bad thing is that with the Diamox we are now having to make many more visits to the wooden platform, or go searching off the trail for the "least visible" spot.

Our arrival in Tengbouche was glorious because of the amazing views in all directions. Kumar went ahead to find us lodging at "Trekkers Guesthouse" and although our room is small, right off the dining room, and has trees growing out of the walls, it is much warmer than outside. We took a quick tour of the village and couldn't pass up a stop at the "World's Highest Bakery" for some chocolate cake and mint tea. There was also a ceremony going on at the monastery so we went to watch. All the monks were dressed in warm robes and sat on elevated benches praying and chanting. Every once in a while they would blow horns, bang drums and ring bells. It was freezing while we were watching the ceremony and after an hour decided to leave. When we came outside the clouds had closed in around the village the temperature had dropped. They said there was snow earlier today so we may be getting our down jackets our sooner than we expected. Meanwhile, we will keep on sitting around the smoky but warm dining room to wait for our "boiled" dinner. Miles told us to avoid anything fried due to reuse of rancid oil....so of course we are.